A small raw goat’s milk cheese from Somerset, bought from Neals Yard Dairy

This little squat, disc-like little round of cheese is covered in a bloomy grey and white mould. The centre’s bright white. It’s soft and creamy, slightly fluffy, wth a grainy fine-sand texture.

It’s an intensely creamy cheese, with a subtle fresh fruityness, fragrant and citrussy – lemon zest and orange flowers, I think. The bright fresh milkiness makes it feels like a very clean, clear cheese; it makes me think of tall glasses of fresh, cool milk. A touck of acididty gives a very slight hint of yoghurtiness. The rind is soft and sweet, with a touch of dry dustyness; henna powder, or dried, sun-warmed straw.


A cows’s milk cheese, made in Somerset and bought from Neals Yard Dairy

This cheese is very yellow, like a slice of sunshine; our wedge is bright yellow inside, and veers between a vivid gold and softer sand on the outside. Uneven little holes are scattered throughout the paste – smaller and less even than the eyes of a typical swiss cheese.

The cheese has a slightly tacky texture, and initially tastes fruity, nutty and sweet, like a Gouda. It’s a soft and comforting cheese, for a moment, and then I realise that my mouth is tingling and prickling slightly (pleasantly). My cheese chum does science, with aid of a stopwatch, and claims that it reaches peak intensity 25 second after starting to eat the cheese, and fifteen minutes later my lips are still gently tingly. It’s like having a surprise party in my mouth!

One side of the rind is covered in paper, and tastes of musty paper. The other, paper-free side tastes musty, I think this rind is not designed for eating.