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Seasonal slatternry returns: Brandy Cream Cauliflower Cheese
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Some years ago I decided to apply the theory that putting brandy-inclusive dairy products into a bacon sandwich would definitely not make things any worse. This year I have taken the research a significant step further and will now be applying the th[…]

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The Old Suffolk Punch, Hammersmith
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The OSP on Fulham Palace Road has had a chequered past. In its glory days it was a boxer-owned pub “The Golden Gloves” but I first knew it as The Old Suffolk Punch and there was a great, if scuffed, geezer feel to the place — my fav[…]

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Tomme de Fleurette, Nifelchas (cheesy lovers #66 & #67), with a small digression on bacteria
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Tomme de Fleurette
A soft unpasturised cow’s cheese, made in Switzerland and bought from KäseSwiss.
A round of soft white cheese, smattered with a bright white bloom, and striped with little ridges from where it’s been sitting on racks t[…]

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Camembert de Normandie (cheesy lover #63)
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My cheese was not as melty as this one
This is a soft raw milk cows’ cheese from Normandy, bought from Mons
My colleague Lars joins me for a cheesy lunch, and fancies something brie-ish oozing out of bread. We acquire a little wooden box of cam[…]

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Stichelton (cheesey lover #60)
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This raw-milk, blue cows cheese is made in Nottinghamshire. I bought some from Rennet and Press, and it’s also available from Neal’s Yard Dairy.

Stichelton’s a stilton-like cheese, but made with unpasturised milk. It’s a mois[…]

Bleu de Termignon (cheesy lover #59)
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Blue raw cow’s milk cheese, made high up on a French alp, and bought from Mons.
Lunch is a thin wedge of this odd-looking cheese. The outer third the of the cheese is blue, and further towards the center it’s a soft pale crumbly primrose […]

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Finn (cheesy lover #58)
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Christmas cheese next week! Stilton’s the canonical choice, I believe, but what are your Christmas cheesy traditions?
Finn
Soft raw-milk cow’s cheese, made in Herefordshire and bought from Neals Yard Dairy
This is a squat little barrel of[…]

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Wigmore, Wensleydale, Strathdon Blue (cheesy lovers #55, #56, #57)
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Wigmore
Soft unpasturised sheeps cheese, made in Berkshire and bought from Neal’s Yard Dairy.
Our slice of this cheese has a thick wrinkled white and yellow rind. Inside, the paste is slippery and silky, melting onto the paper in an oozy sticky[…]

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Four quick nibbles (cheesy lovers #51 – #54)
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Rubloz
Washed rind cheese, from Switzerland, bought from Kaseswiss.
My wedge of rubloz is pretty pungent, soft and squishy.The inner paste’s a pale creamy grey colour, and it’s coated in a darker biscuit-coloured rind. The rind is thick a[…]

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THE FT TOP 25 PUBS OF THE 00’s No 20: The Chandos
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Sometimes I feel that I am the only one who likes the Chandos – a large Sam Smiths pub near Charing Cross station where the downstairs always feels kind of old and stuck in time, and the upstairs like a velvet throne of luxury and depraved deca[…]

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