I had heard a rumour that prawn cocktail was back on fashionable restaurant menus and yesterday I had it confirmed. I was having a business supper at Inn The Park, a wooden ‘British cafe’ at the swankier end of St. James’ Park. Cured salmon; steak; sucking pig; stuffed artichokes; skate; salads and – there it was, an £8 starter – prawn cocktail. Of course I ordered it. It was nice, too – not eight pounds nice but the dressing was tangy, the prawns fat and juicy, the whole experience oddly comforting even though I’d never eaten prawn cocktail as a child. Perhaps I’d seen my father have it in Berni Inns, or perhaps it’s an English race memory. To add to the faintly absurd 70s ambience we were drinking (a rather bland) rose wine.