My Pasta Hell. I have this problem when I knock up makeshift pasta. I have to resist adding tomato. Don’t get me wrong, I love a tomatoey sauce with my pasta, either a gloopy Neapolitan or meaty Bolognaise. But last night with a red onion, garlic, capers and a stub of a pepperoni I say my hand waved for the tin of toms. Finger under the ring pull I hestitated. Did this really need tomato, surely a good slug of olive oil and a few crushed chillis would be all this needed. Going against my nature I put the tin away, and added a stray anchovy for flavour and noshed down.

Was I right? Oh yes. Like I say, I love the tomato, but pasta does not demand it.