Visitors to Barcelona often find that the works of Mr Gaud’ are overshadowed, nay, pummelled into submission by the pleasures of Voll-Damm, the super-strong local lager whose premises loom into view as soon as the airport bus begins its slow trundle cityward. Well, the Voll-Damm bottle has undergone a remarkable transformation. No longer content to simply house the brew in gothic splendour, the label now features the history of the beer! It now transpires that we are enjoying a M’rzenbier, first brewed in Bavaria, the home of oompah-pah. The amount of malt was DOUBLED to produce an ENERGETIC beer which is apparently SUMMERPROOF (!!!), with increased intensity of flavour and strength of body, no less. Only the fact that it was first produced in Catalonia in 1953 prevents me from claiming that Mr Gaud’ was crossing the road in search of a nice cold bottle of Voll-Damm, muttering, “stick yer San Miguel up yer arse!” when he had his fateful encounter with a tram.