Over nearly 20 years I’ve stopped off countless times on the way out of town back to Hackney at Wing Lee Loi in the Essex Road. It used to do Polynesian as well as Chinese, and when I was very first there it had a plaque on the wall about the cook, and how he’d won awards at various swanky restaurants before he arrived in the Essex Road. It’s owned by different people now, and they no longer do Polynesian. I actually always had Chicken Zingara: it seems they don’t do that now either. And I only just discovered this morning that it isn’t Polynesian at all!! The food’s pretty good, no longer terrific – but actually it was never as good after the cook in question moved on, years ago now. I hope his Chinese-Polynesian version of an Italian dish hasn’t been lost to the world, but I don’t know how to find out.