Cool Britannia’s star has fallen, The Pharmacy had to go.

It always seemed out of its element ‘ it would have been much more comfortable in Dean Street. The only time I ate there it was full of mismatched couples and media types not touching their food ‘ at our table were the only people I could see who were there for conventional reasons, or what whould have been conventional reasons in any other restaurant.

That its select custom dried up is no surprise. What that location can really support is repeat and casual business; after all, it is ‘ was ‘ across the road from Ask Pizza and Caf’ Uno. There’s room for an enduring and interesting restaurant there, but the Pharmacy was an art installation, and an easily swallowed one at that ‘ at its most basic, it was pop, with all the swiftly dating transience that implies. Cool Britannia was a trick with inevitable, if not actually planned, obsolescence, and it took the Pharmacy with it.

I quite liked the food, though.