In La Porchetta on Saturday I reverted to type and had one of my favourite pizzas, Pizza Speck. It is a simple, crisp dough which has gorgonzola and speck ham on it. No tomato, nothing else. Quite salty truth be told. Not very vegetably.

And then it dawn on me. This was the poshest cheese on toast you can get. No, not even cheese on toast. It was ham & cheese so it was just a posh open Croque Monsieur. But then the hierachies of breeding started to confuse. Can a pizza be posher than something French, even if it is the staple of French truck stops. Where does Welsh Rarebit come in this genealogy (low down one suspects).

And then the pizza was eaten so I stopped worrying.