More on La Porchetta, having dragged more hardy souls to the new one on Exmouth Market a couple of weeks ago. These epicureans are hard to please, so it was nice to see that the food went down pretty well, as did the vase of wine. One of the party complained her absolutely huge chunk of meat was slightly over herbed, but considering that only one of us finished the meal it was pretty fine nosh for the price.

By lord do they need to sort out the decor. I don’t think I have ever been in a restaurant quite so bright and overlit. It was like eating in the Nastro Azzuro advert, thankfully without anyone pouring paint on your head. The huge upended mushrooms which are the light fittings are really rather nice, but having them turned on full is not the best way to display their design. Coupled with the high ceilings which amplify the eating clatter, the whole affair ends up feeling a bit like a works canteen. Maybe the idea is to turnover more customers, or eat into a not dissimilar decored Pizza Express vibe. But this felt all wrong, and is my least favourite of the chain. The Queens’ Square one is only ten minutes walk away.