Just to be clear: my delight at the modes of Japanese pizza reflects my delight at the complexity that ideas of “real” pizza are fast developing (viz an Asian vision of what a “Nordic” topping of this Italian staple might be). I see absolutely no reason why pizzaness must be assumed to reside in i. presence of dough base, ii. presence of mozarella, iii. presence of tomato sauce. A fetish for any of these three merely material symbols of an excellence (a quality which – being cultural – is a mutating consequence of time’s passing and encounter’s inevitable effects) may keep us from the best excellence available